Missed out on one of those perfect NJ swells today. Watched as I worked to see the wind come around and turn the surf from stormy to near pristine in a matter of a couple of hours. Sometimes its a real bummer to work so close to the ocean. You can hear it, sometimes see it, but you just can't get in it. Hoping I'd be able to get home and grab my gear and get back for a sunset session, I came home to find a sick kid who needed Dad to be at home and not at the beach. Yin!
Get a late afternoon text from my buddy planning a DP for tomorrow morning. Seems the swell may be sticking around for another day. Then he mentions that he's going to be selling off his early 1970s 9'9" Greg Liddle. Took me about one whole second to say, "I'll take it!" Yang!
A little bit of negative turned into a whole lot of positive. Bitch'n! :)
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