Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Still a few weeks until departure but the stoke is in full effect. Very eager to get down there and enjoy the adventure of it all. Aloha!
PS: Surfed some small, very clean and crystal clear swell on Wednesday. 2 foot and out on the Jacobs for the third time. Lovin that board so far.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
First nor'easter of the season arrived as a pair. Sadly, I missed the Friday swell event due to work and yesterday morning had a little too much east in the winds and was a choppy mess. Today, I finally managed to score. The after church barrel-fest was a nice surprise to say the least. First wave of the day went square and provided an awesome view from way back in the pit. Didn't come out of too many but almost every single wave was a barrel. Awesome views and although the coldest October surf in recent memory, a perfect day of wave riding!
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
At the board swap this past weekend I came across a Rick UFO model (circa 1967) with a familiar tail shape. It is the first I have seen (in person) other than the tail on my Device. I have learned since my last post on the subject, that the tail is not designed to channel water from the deck side but instead it was to allow roll or belly in the bottom all the way through the tail. Or, something like that. Aloha!
Rick - 9'8" UFO
Cooperfish - 10' Device