Sunday, October 18, 2009

Hollow Day!

First nor'easter of the season arrived as a pair. Sadly, I missed the Friday swell event due to work and yesterday morning had a little too much east in the winds and was a choppy mess. Today, I finally managed to score. The after church barrel-fest was a nice surprise to say the least. First wave of the day went square and provided an awesome view from way back in the pit. Didn't come out of too many but almost every single wave was a barrel. Awesome views and although the coldest October surf in recent memory, a perfect day of wave riding!

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