Thursday, April 29, 2010

Swell week....

Exchanged a few emails last weekend with Greg Liddle, seems like a real swell guy. Great explanations to my questions and some really good information provided as well. No doubt that he will be getting my business. Very stoked as I keep seeing so many really cool Liddles on other sites, I am very excited about getting my mind right and grabbing one(or two) for myself. Still trying to decide what model(s) will go best for me around here.

Super fun waves Sunday and Tuesday. Missed Monday but it looked fun on my drive home surf check. Really stoked after Tuesday evening's session. I kept thinking about what a 7'10" or 8' would have been like in the near perfect conditions we had. Still loving my 9'2" and it was a blast the other night. We even had a pod of dolphin show up and share some waves with us. First group I have seen this spring. They were really cool and hanging out very close to us. Love it when they come up for a breath close by and just look right at you. So mello and enjoying the waves just like us. Aloha!

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Our little author

LB's first work of fiction. :)

Thursday, April 22, 2010


Its about time I pick up the phone and call Mr. Liddle! I've been lurking on quite a few forums and blogs that post Greg's shapes. In the last week I've seen a couple that really grabbed me. The reef smoothie on Kirk Putnam's blog and the one below, from jdubsingles blog. Time to stop looking and get my hands on one!

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Saturday surprise....

Got an early AM call from Chuck D. saying there was a little wave this morning. Surprised because we really weren't expecting anything this weekend. Turned out to be a super fun 3 hour loggin session. Met a few new faces in the lineup and on the beach. Offshore breeze, sun came out around 10 and it was just about perfect. Stoked!

Chuck D. - covered

Tony suiting up to go "fishin"

Shawn G.

Dave filming from the beach. Check out his work at

Friday, April 16, 2010


The skies are dark and rumbling behind the house this morning. Looks like we may end the week with a spring thunderstorm... Sold my 7' Lovelace hull this past week. Glad it went to a good home. Still regret not going a little longer on it, fun board but maybe a bit smaller than what I should be riding. Not saying it didn't fly, it flew. I just wasn't able to keep up apparently. Really thinking about another in the 7'6" to 8' range. Maybe... Not 100% sure yet. Thinking I'll ride my 9'2" bojorquez until its dead and then make a decision.

BTW, if you want some good coffee and support a local business, check out They're in Ocean View, NJ.

"last bird out"

Just got a short email this AM, he said at one point there were only 20 of them left out there. Said he was proud to have been there until the last flight out..... Glad to hear from him.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

KOP closed....

Just read on the NY Times "At War" blog that the Korangal outpost closed..... We haven't heard from our ROMAD in a few weeks and its where he's been for the past month or so. Found this photo on one of his friends facebook page and its just nice to see his face.
nice to see a smile too...

Friday, April 9, 2010


Yesterday's onshores and last night's cold front produced some ultra clean, end of the work week, swell. With the offshores howling, the incoming tide produced these smoking clean little waves that were a blast. STOKED!!!

going left

darn water spots

sandblasted bojorquez

Thursday, April 8, 2010


You can only wear a yellow wetsuit when you have the sack to drop in on waves like this!

Wednesday, April 7, 2010


My buddy Chuck D. asked me to haul this up to the Beach House swap last fall to see if it would sell. Due to its mutilated fin, it seemed to draw little interest. When I brought it home he told me that he did not want it back and that I was welcomed to it. It has some poorly repaired wounds and a few open ones as well. I bought a redwood and balsa D-fin for it and have intentions of getting it seaworthy. I never really thought much about the shape, I just seemed to focus on the overall condition. As I was looking at it the other day I noticed, it looks a little piggish.... :)

LB with a Hannon

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Easter in Afghanistan

Another holiday has passed by for our guys and gals overseas. We hope that their Easter Sunday was a safe and quiet one. You are always in our thoughts and prayers. Aloha Nui Loa.

Afghan sunset

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Beach Boys....

Woke up to an onshore breeze and a dense spring fog. Decided to skip checking the surf and instead take a drive up Route 9 and visit a few antique shops along the way. A few old LPs caught my eye. ;) Thanks John.

Friday, April 2, 2010

Fun Friday

What a "Good" Friday it was. (no religious sacrilege intended..) Took the day off to hang out with LB who started his Easter break today. Hoping for a repeat of yesterday's reported "perfection", we headed over to the rocks right after breakfast. A little wind on it and a bit bigger than I was expecting. Took the 10'6" and I am pretty darn sure I had the longest nose ride of my life. Nothing by any real nose rider's standards I am sure, but since I can't seem to ever get more than a cheater 5 or a heartbeat or two out at the tip, being on the nose for a solid 8 to 10 count was just cool. :)

Oh, and we had to wade through the last few feet of road before the parking lot. (LB got a lift from Dad) The record rain for the area is quite evident everywhere down here. Even at the beach.

10'6" Dennis Ryder

photo by LB

photo by LB