Thursday, November 10, 2011
The night before last..
a few of us were over at the rocks enjoying some clean little ground swell. I had taken my board to work so that I could get wet as quickly as possible once the afternoon whistle blew. The shorter days require a bit more AM preparation and a little faith that there will be a clean wave waiting for the late afternoon. As the sun began to set, the moon had already snuck high into the eastern sky. Matty brought to light the many colors that were in the sky and how awesome the sights were all around us. The incredible sunset, the moonlight dancing in the near glassy swell, the sun shinning off of an airliner high overhead well after the sun had left our view. As I sat next to the rocks waiting on the right wedge that would show every few minutes, I watch Captain Dan casting a bucktail into the surf hoping for striper to jump on the line. His silhouette with the sunset to his back would have made a great photo. He hoots that there's a set on the outside. After a short little right I kick out to see Roach paddle into a nice lined up wall. The waves are picture book perfect and the surrounding views make them all the more beautiful to witness. It's times like these, when you can put aside the trival things and just enjoy being alive and in the ocean, that make you really appreciate how blessed life truly is. Aloha.