I managed an early morning surf yesterday, first since I got back from Central America. Not the session I was hoping for. Took out the 9'8" expecting it to be pretty small. Mistake! Second wave was a right that sucked out as I got to the bottom, got dumped, bounced off the bottom and came to the realization that the water was a lot colder than I was expecting. Could've used a hood a few times during the session. Not a good day to be out on a heavy log, just too steep and dumpy. Did manage to slide into a few nice rights but nothing like my last session down south. In 6 days days down south I only got dumped on three or four waves, even on the big day. One session at home and I probably got beat down a half dozen times in sloppy 3' surf. I should've stayed down south. :) Aloha!
Lance's Left, Nicaragua