Thursday, January 15, 2015

Got in early....

...and glad that I did. Looked about thigh high from the dunes but once in the water it was a little better and clean as you could want. Pure glass at moments and very fun lined up walls to play on. Spun around on a little left as soon as I got out into the line up and was so happy to just pop to my feet and go. Felt good to be surfing again. Managed 2 hours till the tide "wonked" things up. Air 30, water 40, just me, my trusty 9'10" Zeph and a pack of ducks hanging on the outside waiting for the better sets. :)

 "selfie"   Ha!


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