Friday, September 19, 2014

Yeah, I got tossed....

Edouard delivered.... It wasn't all perfect on the first day but it was swell. Over at the Rocks on Weds. afternoon the sets were in the OH range and the close-out to clean wall ratio was somewhere in the 10 to 1 range, depending on who you talked to. The swell angle was almost straight on and the NE wind that blew all morning had backed off to just a breeze but a lumpy chop remained until the early evening.  For me, I managed to paddle into every bad intentioned shutdown close-out that rolled my way for the first hour I was out. Air dropped into a few pits for extra humiliation. Frustration level was peaking until I finally slipped into a nice right hander that opened up and let me go somewhere other than straight or down. There were good waves and I did see some nice rides out there. As for myself, it was more of a humbling experience and a good workout. Missed any photo op but hope to see some from a friend who was snapping away from the sand. Thursday after work was much more fun, had way better form and was a great deal cleaner than the day before. Not quite as big but shoulder sets every now and then kept everyone looking outside. Nice to surf 2 days in a row for a change. It's been a while. 

My friend Dave sent a couple shots from the swell up his way. A nice looking set-up somewhere up in the NE area.
 How nice it must be to have a point break nearby. :)

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