Tuesday, September 11, 2012

I must recant...

OK, Leslie wasn't a total disappointment after all. Ended up in N. Wildwood late Sunday and finally found those offshores I was jonesing for. Clean waist to head high and just smoking fast. Took my 9'10" YYZ expecting it to be smaller but it turned out that being able to get in early really set me up for some fat, fun, fast lefts. Then... last night, going on a text from a friend I ended up back at the Rocks. A long walk in from the USFW trail showed what looked like a clean, offshore, waist high at best, wave just dumping on the sandbars. Since I'd brought my 7'9" and not one of my longer boards, I figured I was in for a blah session. As I walked down toward the water a set rolled in and just lit up the crew sitting inside. After that, it was a race to find an open spot in the crowd and wait for more of what I'd just seen to arrive. They came, I got into some awesome stand-up straight overhead lefts and what a session it was. Surfed till sunset and ended up all the way down next to the Rocks with Jeff Walden. Watching Jeff just flying on the rights down there was a true treat. I managed to get into one big right down that way that was by far one of the better backhand waves I've had all year. Sadly, I left the camera in the car, a choice I quickly came to regret with all of the great views out there. Aloha.

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