Saturday, July 23, 2011

Five over....

For me, this summer has been one of the best that I can remember is a very long while. Although we haven't had a head high wave since April, we have had plenty of small, fun and very log worthy days. The Board Design YYZ that I picked up late last summer has become an all time favorite for me. Bottom line, its the only board I want to ride. I have tried to get some of the other boards in the basement wet, but I find myself thinking of my new love the entire time I'm surfing them. This morning was another one of those small, clean, lined up early morning surfs. Five over, toes curled around the nose, flying down the line over crystal clear water was pure joy. No matter that it was, maybe, a thigh high wave. It was perfect. Over my surfing life I have always had the mindset of trying as many different boards that I could. And while I am still open to that ideal, it has become difficult to imagine anything else being as much fun as this one. Many thanks to Mr. Carrigg for creating this magic carpet and mahalos as well to Jamie Kelly for turning me on to it. Aloha!

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