Sunday, September 19, 2010

Igor delivers...

Igor's swell started showing up on Thursday and continued to build into the weekend. Missing the camera to document some of the views from the last few days but have some great shots etched into my memory bank. Today was the biggest day since... I don't remember. Dean Lyons had a huge wave at the rocks. Saw him drop into one monster that was several feet overhead, no exaggerations. I had a great view as I was paddling back out, I made it over the shoulder of the wave he was on only to meet the bigger wave behind it. Gotta love it when there's a 10' wall of whitewater about to mow you down.... ;) Overall it was pretty clean this afternoon, just these huge bombs rolling in and what a rush it was dropping down such a big face on a big board. The 10'6" was great and so fast down the big walls. So often I want to get something smaller for the big stuff but today really proved that a big board works just fine in the right conditions. Best big waves of the year for me so far.

10'6" and likes the big stuff just fine!!!

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