Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Well, Bill has come and gone. He provided me with many happy hours spent in the water this past weekend. Caught some very fun waves, much bigger than the normal fare. It is not very often that we get to play in waves that reach the double overhead range. Not sure how much bigger I would've stuck around for. I got a chance to see some of my friends pull into some beautifully groomed mackers on Saturday afternoon. And I was blessed to ride a few of the bigger waves of my lifetime. Funny when you think about how few opportunities we on the east coast get to try our hand in larger surf. There were a few that rolled through Saturday afternoon that went unridden and were some of the larger waves I have seen in person. I've seen 30'+ seas in the open ocean and although these were not in that catagory, I wasn't sitting in front of those while they jacked as they crept toward the sandbar. I had one particular hold down that really surprised me. After dropping into what became a massive close out, I straightened out and was subsequently knocked down by the wall of whitewater. What was likely a mere 10-15 seconds seemed like much, much longer. I was very surprised at how much power there was in the wave and very excited all at the same time. I think I came up laughing and hooting. Guess that is a joy reflex after getting scared a little bit..... Thanks Bill!