Monday, October 4, 2010
Chilly HQ
Checked Beach Ave on the drive home after work and came home and grabbed a board to head right back. Crazy how a few inches of tide change things within a half an hour. The NE wind that blew all day shifted NW and was a little on the cold side tonight. The funky backwash off the beach was jacking what looked like a 2' wave into a 4' wave making for a pretty fun "drop in then get out" kind of thing. The 10'6" was not liking the howling offshores. Getting up on the nose ASAP was key to staying on the face. Made for some real fun waves. Headed out to the tip of the rocks after a pretty big set rolled all the way through to the inside. Managed to get into a few nice sized ones but the long waits in the wind got a little too cold. Probably the last session in my spring suit for the year unless things warm back up soon... Last week the water was in the mid 70s, now the buoy is reading 66. If these cool rainy days hang around for a few more days, I have a feeling we're going to be seeing 50 degree water temps in the very near future. Fun session.... ALOHA!
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