Shocktober

As in, shocked the surf has been so poor...

Even this guy has no idea what's going on....

So long September

 

Fall is slowly arriving and my favorite month has come and gone. Started off another year with an incredible family, good health, great friends and on occasion, some good waves.

 Bid farewell to a friend.

 And received an awesome surprise B-day gift from my buddy Dean.
Proudly displayed in our living room.

Aloha!

Last session of the Summer

Stiff offshores all day had me worried there might not be anything left for an after work surf. Turned out to be near perfect. Couldn't ask for anything better. Light crowd and fantastic conditions. 

Aloha

Sometimes you just gotta go

Almost turned around and came home after my first look at it. NE wind was on it before dawn chopping it up just enough to make it look uninviting. A couple of friends pulled up as I was on my way out and we talked long enough to watch a chest + set peak outside and peel through the inside sandbar. Good enough to get us out there. About 45 minutes in the wind died and it cleaned up quite nice. Shared some really fun ones for a couple hours with just the three of us out there. Word travels fast and by 9:30, the line-up was filling up by the minute. Glad I paddled early. Good times.

 

A fin sighting for my buddy Grant. This one in a nice old G&S Frye.

Aloha

 

Yeah, I got tossed....

Edouard delivered.... It wasn't all perfect on the first day but it was swell. Over at the Rocks on Weds. afternoon the sets were in the OH range and the close-out to clean wall ratio was somewhere in the 10 to 1 range, depending on who you talked to. The swell angle was almost straight on and the NE wind that blew all morning had backed off to just a breeze but a lumpy chop remained until the early evening.  For me, I managed to paddle into every bad intentioned shutdown close-out that rolled my way for the first hour I was out. Air dropped into a few pits for extra humiliation. Frustration level was peaking until I finally slipped into a nice right hander that opened up and let me go somewhere other than straight or down. There were good waves and I did see some nice rides out there. As for myself, it was more of a humbling experience and a good workout. Missed any photo op but hope to see some from a friend who was snapping away from the sand. Thursday after work was much more fun, had way better form and was a great deal cleaner than the day before. Not quite as big but shoulder sets every now and then kept everyone looking outside. Nice to surf 2 days in a row for a change. It's been a while. 

My friend Dave sent a couple shots from the swell up his way. A nice looking set-up somewhere up in the NE area.
 How nice it must be to have a point break nearby. :)

News from the Southeast...

of Asia...

 New job is going well and from all reports he's very happy in his new home. Says the language skills are coming along nicely and enjoying the people he's working with. A few photos from a week trip down to Kuala Lumpur to sort out some work visa requirements. Miss him but stoked to know he's doing what he wants to do, where he wants to be. 

 

Aloha

Ed

He's pretty far out there but the forecasters are still saying we should see some decent surf tomorrow. The latest buoy report is just starting to show the swell period stretch to 13 seconds. Size is still small but I'll remain optimistic.

Oddly enough,  I was just in an old Surfer's Journal reading an article on the Azores. Even looked up flight info and you can get there from Boston for around $500. Looks like the fellas out there could have a good weekend.

Aloha

Well, at least it wasn't flat all week....

Wednesday

Today
 

Garbutt Surfboards!

Matty G. is shaping some beautiful surfboards over on the other side of the Bay.  Check him out HERE! 

 

Trespasser...

 It was a HOT week down this end as the summer season drew to a close. And when it gets hot, the pool seems to be a magnet for anyone who wants to take a dip and cool off. Caught this guy climbing the fence and later had to rescue him once he figured out he couldn't swim.  ;) 

 

Did get to surf the new little Weber on Monday. To say it was a blast would be an understatement...



Stay cool!
Aloha