Thursday, September 30, 2010

Igor photos

All photos by Yukon Ed. Igor swell and leftovers. More to follow.........


Shawn Garry

Rob G.

Rob was on fire. Swear he was in the water all day, every day of the last two hurricane swells. The man is my hero!

Her name escapes me but she's a graceful surfer and always has a smile. She and her boyfriend (Matt?) rescued a teenage bodysurfer who was caught in a rip and pulled way outside on Saturday of the swell. Good karma points earned that day! ;)

Monday, September 27, 2010

Fall

Celebrated #44 this past week and received a fun AM surf as a gift from Mother Ocean. Funny how things change as we get older. As a child, the eagerness for that special day to arrive was so exciting. The excitement of turning another year older was always such a neat experience. Now, the excitement is fading and reality begins to take hold. Youth has passed and the day seems to slip by just like all the rest. These days, I look forward to that special day as the arrival of my favorite season. The arrival of the Fall may be bleak or disappointing to some, the days get shorter, the temperatures start to cool, and we all prep for the eventual coming of winter. But for me, its the best time of the year. Cool but not cold, crisp but not bitter. Watching Mother Nature change her colors from greens to so many shades of red, orange, and yellow. The skies seem a little clearer, the air a little cleaner and the nights a bit quieter. In a word, Peaceful. So as another year slides by, I look forward to the days ahead. Here's hoping for a few more weeks of warm water and some glassy morning surfs. :) Maluhia...

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Igor delivers...

Igor's swell started showing up on Thursday and continued to build into the weekend. Missing the camera to document some of the views from the last few days but have some great shots etched into my memory bank. Today was the biggest day since... I don't remember. Dean Lyons had a huge wave at the rocks. Saw him drop into one monster that was several feet overhead, no exaggerations. I had a great view as I was paddling back out, I made it over the shoulder of the wave he was on only to meet the bigger wave behind it. Gotta love it when there's a 10' wall of whitewater about to mow you down.... ;) Overall it was pretty clean this afternoon, just these huge bombs rolling in and what a rush it was dropping down such a big face on a big board. The 10'6" was great and so fast down the big walls. So often I want to get something smaller for the big stuff but today really proved that a big board works just fine in the right conditions. Best big waves of the year for me so far.

10'6" and likes the big stuff just fine!!!

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Just up the road.....

LB checking out the B-17, B-24 and P-51 at NAS Wildwood's air show... Good time!






A few from Earl's wake



Friday, September 3, 2010

busted

Povs doing its thing...
Probably should've headed up the beach to HQ but we'd surfed it this heavy before. Many fond memories with this board. Going to miss her..

Thursday, September 2, 2010