Early: Weak, high tide, lumpy and side shore.
Mid-day: Dropping tide just starting to let the swell light up the new outside bars and the wind was coming around. Clean 2'- 4' A-Frames with some long rights coming over from the rocks. Just me and my buddy Rob G. trading wave after wave as there was not another surfer was in sight. Air 63, water 55, and the 9'6" Corky was killing it. STOKED!
Oh, the UGLY! Last wave of the day, one miss step and POW! Rail to the face.
(No post session photos due to me bleeding all over the place.)
No worries. That session was worth every stitch! :)
(No post session photos due to me bleeding all over the place.)
No worries. That session was worth every stitch! :)
Just wanted to give you a shout from the valley of the sun, that you have a great piece of details. Can't wait to see what else you have.
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