A few shots of Greg and Yukon from this morning's surf. Fun little swell with the water temps still pretty cool. Ultra clear water and some great views of the aquatic life. Big stingray bounced off my legs as I was shooting in waist deep water. Thought is was cool, after I saw what it was.
For me, this summer has been one of the best that I can remember is a very long while. Although we haven't had a head high wave since April, we have had plenty of small, fun and very log worthy days. The Board Design YYZ that I picked up late last summer has become an all time favorite for me. Bottom line, its the only board I want to ride. I have tried to get some of the other boards in the basement wet, but I find myself thinking of my new love the entire time I'm surfing them. This morning was another one of those small, clean, lined up early morning surfs. Five over, toes curled around the nose, flying down the line over crystal clear water was pure joy. No matter that it was, maybe, a thigh high wave. It was perfect. Over my surfing life I have always had the mindset of trying as many different boards that I could. And while I am still open to that ideal, it has become difficult to imagine anything else being as much fun as this one. Many thanks to Mr. Carrigg for creating this magic carpet and mahalos as well to Jamie Kelly for turning me on to it. Aloha!
I wish I could've shared some of the views that were out tonight. Hit up the rocks for a surf with my buddy Roach after the rain passed through. The clouds parted, rainbows popped up in a few spots and the waves were near perfect. Small, but clean and peeling to the beach. The big man upstairs painted an awesome sky for us admire. On the drive home there were even a few folks stopped on the side of the road to take a few shots of the moment. Think its about time I pick up a new picture taker....... Maluhia!